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Spending a Day on Skadarlija

Mighty Travels

Two tea lovers make their way around Europe with their Mighty Leaf

Spending a Day on Skadarlija, the Bohemian Quarter June 26, 2007

Belgrade, Serbia is not known for its traveling delights. Because of media coverage throughout the 1990's, it's often the case that most Americans see it as a hotbed of criminality and corruption. While we're not keen to get in to a discussion about what degree of this is true, what is not true is that the city is without hidden gems. One of these is Skardalija quarter, or Skadarska Ulica in Serbian.

A short walk from the main Trg Republika (Square of the Republic), there sits this small pedestrian street. It's called the Bohemian Quarter and with good reason because it's quite enjoyable as a break from the oozing rush of traffic that pierces through the center of Belgrade. It was great to sit back at one of the countless cafes for a tea at any point in the day. Going to a movie? Make a stop at Skadarlija. Going home? Perhaps that requires a stop at Skadarlija. We couldn't seem to find any reason not to go there and sit in the many terraces amongst other Belgradians, surrounded by the tall trees, that kept out a good degree of the blinding summer heat.

It's here that you'll also find restaurants running the whole length of the street with traditional foods that, while very meaty and heavy, are absolutely delicious. While sometimes greasy, these foods are always enjoyable unless you're not feeling that you want to live it up as a tourist. The only catch is that you really want to clear your palate at the end of one of these meals. The common Serbian method for this is a shot of Rakija, which is a terribly strong brandy (around 45-50% alcohol) that they make. We chose the easier path and went with a strong, Earl Grey instead. While we missed out on a chance to breath fire, we managed to enjoy the nice hearty taste of bergamot instead, which saw us home.

Where: Skadarljja Street, Belgrade, Serbia
Food: Burek and ?evapi
Tea: Organic Earl Grey